what is your Lead time?
I am slowly transitioning from a built-to-order model to having pedals in stock on a regular basis. This is requiring me to bring on additional help and to work with suppliers to keep the components flowing. This is a learning process and one that I aim to improve on a regular basis. It is my goal to shrink this lead time as I go until it becomes non-existent. My current lead time is roughly 8 to 10 weeks. I do my best to beat that time but it gives me some wiggle room while I grow. I do appreciate your patience and I do not mind folks reaching out to see where my lead times are at.
So...nothing in stock?
Maybe. Never hurts to ask.
what is your warranty?
My warranty is simple. If your pedal stops working for whatever reason I'm happy to take a look at it and if it's an easy fix, I'll do it no charge. If I'm at fault then I will certainly fix or replace parts or pedals as necessary. If there is larger scale damage due to obvious user error or abuse then we will discuss the costs to fix it on a case by case basis.
what's your return policy?
Every pedal I ship comes with a 14 day return policy. All that I ask is that everything is returned in completely original condition with original packaging and materials. To start a return shoot me an email at firstname.lastname@example.org. If everything checks out I will refund your original purchase price minus the cost of shipping.
Where are you located?
I live in the amazingly misunderstood place of Baltimore, Md.
Why are international shipping costs so high?
I've been burned a few times and so have my customers. I ship everything USPS Priority Express International with full insurance. It costs more but it gets there on time and with very little hassle.
Will you lie on the customs form for me?
Can you make a custom version of one of your pedals?
Maybe. Let me know your idea. Custom colors are tough though.
can you make me a completely custom pedal?
Probably not. I don't have much time for one-off commission work as of late. If you're interested in design or contract work then...maybe.
Can I use higher than a 9VDC Supply?
No. I build my pedals to get the maximum headroom out of a 9V supply meaning there would be little improvement AND...the is a big AND...ANYTHING HIGHER THAN A 9VDC SUPPLY WILL DAMAGE THE PEDAL AND VOID WARRANTY.
I really want to use a crappy power supply.
Please don't. I would say a One Spot in good condition is the minimum I would feel confident with on stage regardless of the pedal I'm using. But any legit pedal power supply from the usual suspects is good enough. If you're not sure just shoot me a message.
Why don't your pedals accept a 9V Battery?
No one seemed to care that I offered it so, I removed the option to save me the hassle. If you really need to have it, shoot me a message to see if the pedal you're considering could support a battery. But this option will ultimately be unavailable in any future designs.
Here's some quick comments about troubleshooting the MBD-1:
Holy Crap this thing is loud!!!
Yes, yes it is. I did that to keep up with my high output basses and the rest of my signal chain is set up to handle a loud pedal. If yours isn’t used to high volume signals then there is no shame to keep the Volume and Clean controls well below noon. The range is wide on purpose. But not every amp or subsequent pedal is ready to receive an up to 18V p-p signal. I wanted to lower this but some of my customers angrily protested so I’ve kept it dangerously high for the time being.
I can’t hear distortion.
Turn down the Clean channel and turn up the Gain and Depth Controls. If need be turn up the internal boost trim (the trim pot on the left hand side when looking at the PCB). You may also need to turn up the tone control to help you cut in the mix. The last thing to add would be the Clean channel (if at all). The more clean you add the less distortion you have and if you start playing a game of turning up clean then distortion then clean then distortion you’ll end up with a hot mess. So distortion first then fuss with the Clean channel.
There’s too much distortion.
Turn down the gain and depth controls and possibly the internal boost trim. Cut back on some highs to mellow out your tone and you’ll sink back into the mix.
It’s too bright.
Turn up the depth and gain controls and turn the down the tone control somewhat. Don’t be afraid to adjust your bass and amp’s EQ and make sure you’re using a rig with a good amount of low end definition. A good bass and bass amp is pivotal to a good bass tone regardless of pedals used. Also if you have new round wound strings those will be extra bright coming out of a distortion so use your basses tone knob to cut back on those highs until the strings mellow out.
It’s too dark.
Turn down the gain and depth and turn up the tone. The range on these controls is wide and is meant to allow for accommodation of many basses and rigs. Don’t be afraid to turn controls all the way up or down. Also make sure your rig had a good amount of highs and you’r not using a bass with dead strings. I’ve learned this lesson far too many times. The MBD is designed to sound good enough in most settings but she really shines with a good bass with good strings and a good full range head and cab. When I’m using something like a fridge or a vintage cab I always max out my tone controls and use my head to add some more highs if I need to cut. With a modern full range cab I find that I keep the tone around noon and adjust the depth to taste. New strings not required but they certainly help.
It makes a loud pop.
This is one thing that I never had issues with personally but I have heard from several customers that had popping issues. I used to address them one-by-one but I have moved to using a buffered bypass design. It’s not a cure-all but it helps in most cases. There are sadly a multitude of reasons why an effect would pop while switching and I can’t guarantee against all of them. What I can say is that using clean regulated and isolated power supplies and known good cables with a properly serviced bass and amp can help a bunch as well as switching a pedal on and off a few times while the system is muted can help work out any pops without damaging anything. The variable is all the other pedals and effects in you signal chain. There could be a possible interaction between effects that is unknown to me. I have tested my pedal in several different rigs with different levels of questionable gear and power but I haven’t tried them all.
It’s too noisy.
To borrow a phrase from a friend you’ll find noise if you go looking for it. I will admit that it is not the quietest pedal I’ve ever used but it is on par with other distortion pedals I have played. Distortion pedals by nature create noise but if you find it to be too much then I recommend many of the same remedies I mentioned in the previous paragraph such as: using clean regulated and isolated power supplies and known good cables with a properly serviced bass and amp. I recommended trying the MBD solo or in conjunction with a few pieces of gear to see when and where the noise develops. I also like to suggest trying a different bass and amp in a different location.